Piezo Pro linearization procedure


#1

I’ve used K7 inks for a year now and am familiar with linearizing using Roy Harrington’s droplet. Now I’m ready to get going with the Pro inks (Epson 3880). However, the 2017 Deluxe Edition Manual does not explain how to deal with the 3 curves used with Pro inks. Reading previous posts in this forum it seems that the recommendation is to linearize the Cool quad curve, and the Warm quad curve, right? I know the moderators say it should work right out of the box, but I’m going to check it anyway. I am confused by the Neutral quad curve. Why not linearize the neutral curve? If a neutral colored image is some combination of the Warm and Cool inks (2:8 or whatever) then what is the role of a Neutral quad curve given that there is no Neutral ink? How does linearizing Warm and Cool affect the Neutral quad curve? Can one have linear Warm and Cool quad curves, and print using just the Neutral curve and have the print not be linear?

I’m sure this is my limitation, and I am grateful if anyone can shed light on this for me. Thank you,

Wayne


#2

hello Wayne,

I’m using ProK4 and I really can answer only about my own short experience. I tried the master-curves on Baryta Type5, Hahmühle P.Rag (ultra smooth & Bright White) and 4 Awagami papers. On Type 5 the differences ,between the master-curves and a new linearization (of the 3 curves) are very small but nevertheless “visible”. On the other hand, with matt papers, the linearization (not the same for Hahnemühle and Awagami) of the curves proved indispensable, even on the neutral curve.

Ps: I’m using the “piezography step error correction tool”

I hope this can help you a little…

best,

Anthony


#3

Just my humble opinion. You can create neutral tones by one of two means:

Method 1.) either by using a 100% neutral curve that blends the warm and cool inks into a neutral tone, or

Method 2.) by specifying a percentage of the cool curve plus a percentage of the warm curve that creates neutral tones .

The linearization process is adusting the curves to your particular printer. The neutral curve may have been created from a combination of the warm and cool curves, but it is an independent curve that is not changed when you change either the warm or cool curve.

If you choose to print your own neutral tones using method 2) above, by only specifying a percentage of a linearized cool curve and a percentage of a linearized warm curve, then the resulting output should be linear. If you choose to print your own neutral tones using Method 1), by specifying 100 percent of a neutral curve, then that curve should be linearized as well.


#4

Neutral on gloss is between 18% and 22% warm and on matte it’s between 22% and 30% warm.

 

For those who can conceptualize that as the middle (aka, 82% cool and 18% warm = middle) than the neutral curve is not exactly needed.

 

best,

Walker


#5

Thank you all for your responses. It makes more sense to me now, and I get it!