Non-toxic darkroom overview

Hi @jon-cone

In an old post Is there a better printer than 3880 for DN (silver gelatin)? - #4 by jon-cone you mentioned that you had “built a non-toxic darkroom at Cone Editions to work with the noble metals”.

Have you detailed this anywhere? If not would you mind giving a brief overview here?

I tried to have a dig through the archives but couldn’t find any further elaboration on what processes and kit you have implemented.

I am wanting to set up a small darkroom to do DN stuff, having been very satisfied with the straight inkjet prints I’ve achieved with my PPEV2 setup, and particularly like the look of platinum palladium prints produced by DN. Also I have seen some nice salt prints from which I think were done from DN too.

Cheers,
Chris.

Our darkroom is in its 3rd incarnation as a central part of our business. It is quite large now and the entire room humidity and temperature is controlled to produce a precise hydration for our platinum / palladium printing. By controlling the hydration of the paper both before and after coating the sensitizer we are able to precisely control the process with PiezoDN - with no need for proofing or test prints as the results match our displays.

The sink is 40" x 12’ and made of stainless steel fabricated by a local sheet metal company that specializes in dairy farm sinks. The costs were 1/8th that of what was quoted by a darkroom sink company. I highly recommend going to a local dairy farm and asking where they have their massive sinks made. It is a different economy than the darkroom suppliers… yet the same stainless steel and same concept of slow movement to a drain.

And we now develop and build the world’s fastest UV Exposure systems. Our fastest system, now in place at dozens of others studios and Universities can expose a platinum print in 60 seconds. That innovation helps produce smoother prints with better dMax.

The darkroom can accommodate 6-8 workshop attendees - so it is much larger than one would need as a personal darkroom… but the concept of controlling hydration should be the same. Running a humidifier, a dehumidifier, and a temperature controller all triggered by digital control systems is the secret to producing platinum prints that match your intentions. The process of noble metal salts converting back to the actual metals is regulated by the presence of water molecules. And precise relative humidity is the most overlooked factor even by seasoned practitioners. We use inexpensive digital controllers where we set a range of temperature and humidity to remain constant within +/- 1.5 degrees. Beyond that we measure contrast changes which are unwanted.

The darkroom ambient lighting is produced by LED relatively free of UV and is like the dimness of what an imaging room should be. Actually a bit brighter - so we can work in a natural feeling environment rather than a “dark” room. WE have recently applied three layers of UV blocking film to one of our picture windows and it removes more than 97% of the UV. One layer advertised as 99.3% removed only 50% (apparently buyers of these products do not measure for 365nM). So now we work able to see outside and long days are more than pleasant.

Our verifiedUV exposure system is fully enclosed so that we can expose where we coat and with the entire darkroom humidity/temperature controlled we can coat where we expose and also sink process. The a/c slash heat, dehumidier, and humidifiers all turn on and off as needed by the digital controllers.

That’s the state of our darkroom and easy to replicate. The most important being this particular device: Amazon.com: WILLHI WH1436H Mini Plug-n-play Digital Air Humidity Controller with probe for Humidifier Dehumidifier Greenhouse Pets Animal Basement : Appliances

In terms of our chemistry - I transitioned a few years ago from potassium based platinum / palladium to Malde-Ware. Potassium based required ferric oxalate which I find to be the bane of anyone’s existence in a darkroom. Malde-Ware introduced to me by Pradip Malde is infinitely more stable because it is ammonium based. We can mix our noble metals with ammonium ferric oxalate and the mixture stays fresh and sensitive for up to 4 years in an amber bottle. So, we tend to calibrate a 25-200ml bottle of sensitizer and set and forget… as long as the relative humidity is controlled and we use the same bottle we do not need to recalibrate or count drops and all that. We also keep the same batch of Revere Platinum paper and a single batch of Arches Platine to eliminate variables.

We calibrate differently in the Summer than in the Winter because it is easier and more efficient to control 57-60% rH at 72ƒ in the winter and 63-65% rH at 68ƒ in the Summer. These produce two different tones in the final prints but we can also change tone through mixture of platinum to palladium. We tend to a 50/50 mixture unless a client wants something “special” such as very warm brown or very cool neutral…

We can turn on our relative humidity controllers on Saturday and by Monday morning we simply need print film and produce finished prints. This control via relative humidity and PiezoDN allows us to produce, for example, five perfect 22x30 prints without having to make a single test print… Our system works for us professionally and economically and most importantly matches our intentions.

Initially - with the potassium based chemistry, and fair to say before we controlled the environment, what came out in the tray was a total mystery with ferric oxalate. And while that is magically interesting it is also quite expensive. Rather than rely on mystery to control what our prints look like we can now rely 100% on our displays. We have had workshop attendees (we offer these in the Summer) who have taken this humidity control to bathroom sized darkrooms and have reported the same control. We are also the only source of Malde-Ware authorized pre-mixed chemistry and we produce it differently than other suppliers. We offer bottles of pre-sensitized solutions that can be used for years. Our customers can also calibrate their darkrooms with our PiezoDN system and enjoy the same consistency that we do. This is what we teach in our workshops!

So there is the update!

cheers!

Jon

2 Likes

Thank you! That was much more of a thorough reply than I expected and so useful for it!

Two more questions:

  1. Are you always printing from the DN to print 1:1, or do you (can you?!) enlarge?

  2. Can you ship your UV exposing systems to the UK?

Cheers

Always contact printing. The negs designed for 1:1. And yes, we have shipped our units to UK already and we produce them at 220v.

1 Like

Thanks Jon, that’s great to know!

Jon, thanks for this detailed response. I am sure it will be helpful to many! Chris - there are a couple of other people in England who have attended Cone workshops and use the methods and UV exposure unit Jon describes here. Feel free to contact me directly if you want to connect with them. (They may be on this forum…)

1 Like

Thanks Pradip, I will do!

Jon,

I have a question about the temp/humidity control system you are using. It seems that all of the AC’s dehumidifiers and humidifiers available these days have electronic on/off switches. If the power to the unit is cut off by the WILLHI on reaching the limit set, one must push the power button on the ac/humidifier/dehumidifier to have it begin operating again when the power is restored by the WILLHI sensor seeing the lower/upper limit has been reached.

I’ve tried to find units that are accurate enough in themselves so that I can set temp or humidity levels on each unit individually and have them adhered to so that the environmental conditions are stable. What I’ve found varies by 5-7 degrees and 10% humidity give or take. Not terrible, but more accuracy would be a good thing.

Any recommendations for ac/humidifier/dehumidifier units with mechanical switches will be very much appreciated.
Thanks!
Mark

Hi Mark,

It’s true with the digital controls but not with the old fashioned mechanical controls.

So we are using these humidifiers:

And this Dehumidifier:

Although it may not be made anymore…

You want them with dials that click on and off!

best,

Jon

Hi Jon,
I have that very dehumidifier, and it’s an electronic control, no clicky switch sadly.
But the humidifier is very helpful - the switch is manual! I’m ordering it today.
Thanks!
Mark

Well actually,
I just tried the dehumidifier, and it does restart is the power is cut - as by the WILLHI.
My bad - for anyone else looking at this thread.
Sheepishly yours,
Mark